2019 Oscars: Austrian Designer Julia Koerner brings 3D-Printing to the Oscars
For the first time, 3D-Printing hits the Academy Awards. The winner of the Academy Award for Costume Design Ruth E Carter for the Black Panther brought on Julia Koerner to develop the remarkable 3D-Printed costumes of Queen Ramonda character. These included the Queen’s Crown and Shoulder Mantle. The Black Panther won Academy Awards.
Julia Koerner is an award-winning Austrian Designer and Professor at UCLA’s School of Architecture. She specializes in 3D design for 3D-Printing. Her past works include 3D-printed haute-couture for Iris Van Herpen, and Chanel’s Maison Lesage; both of which were
recently exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) show entitled Manus x Machina.
The 3D designs are developed and simulated in 3D-space utilizing algorithms and scripts to generate the patterns and three- dimensional effects that are customized to the wearer. The technology allows Koerner to research and develop highly complex and intricate designs, which cannot be fabricated in any other way. The Material used is a strong and exible polymer that is highly durable, the printing process itself takes several days within the laser sintering machine.
The technique used for 3D-Printing Queen Ramonda’s costumes is known as Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), where a bed of powder is fused by a laser beam microscopically, layer by layer to fabricate the intricate 3D designs developed in the computer by Koerner. The costumes were manufactured by Materialise in Belgium, who Koerner has been working with for over a decade.
Shortly after receiving the Academy Award, Ruth E Carter joined the Oscars most sought-after Vanity Fair party wearing a 3D-Printed Statement Piece designed by Julia Koerner. Koerner says: “Over the past two months, I developed a customizedstatement piece for Ruth, we found inspiration in African imagery from the photographer Seydou Kaïta, and digitally crafted afro-futuristic patterns to an asymmetrical ensemble that references the 1950’s fashion designs of Balenciaga”. To sublime the piece, Julia Koerner worked with Swarovski to integrate their cutting edge line of crystals onto the garment in a novel technique, which is a rst of its kind. The commission of the piece is combined with Ruth Carter’s dress developed by the renowned B Michael America.
About Julia Koerner
Julia Koerner is an award-winning Austrian designer working at the convergence of architecture, product and fashion design. She is internationally recognized for design innovation in 3D-printing. Julia’s work stands out at the top of these disciplines. Her designs have been featured in the National Geographic Magazine, VICE, WIRED and the New York Times among other publications. Museum and Institutions which have exhibited her work include the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (MET), Palais des Beau Arts in Brussels, Museum of Applied Arts MAK Vienna, Ars Electronica, the Art Institute of Chicago and the High Museum of Art in Atlanta among others. The constantly intriguing aspect of Julia’s work is its embodiment of a beautiful organic aesthetic.
Julia is founder of JK Design GmbH, specialising in design for 3D-printing. In 2015 Julia launched an entirely 3D-Printed ready-to-wear collection entitled ‘Sporophyte.’ Her collaborations involved 3D Printed fashion pieces developed with Haute Couture Houses for Paris Fashion week and 3D printed costumes for Hollywood entertainment productions such as Marvel’s Black Panther in collaboration with Ruth Carter. Most recently she collaborated with Swarovski on a showpiece which displays Swarovski’s continued strive for innovation and the early developments of 3D-printing technology with glass.
During Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture, on Tuesday, July 3,
Maison des Centraliens has hosted three young designers with their Fall- Winter Collections 2018-2019:
ABE by Ariane Chaumeil Jewelry “Miroir”
There is magic and mystery in a mirror : the reflexion of who looks into it is real, but reversed. Since we gaze at ourselves, all fantasies become possible and brings us back to face each other, and to what the world has to face. As a two-way mirror, you can see without being seen. Step through and find out with this collection, and the part of your soul using your imagination, whether it is dark or whether radiant…
The fall winter collection of the ABE by Ariane Chaumeil house, whose crafting remains done with the blowtorch glass, becomes richer with a new proposition: the metal paste making. Sculpted and cast, the metal paste is modelled, sanded, fired at high temperature, brushed and rubbed with a burnisher and polished several times in order to get pieces of golden and white bronze, and of pure copper, with a shiny, ancient rendering.
A couture collection by designer Armine Ohanyan
A couture collection made in France, entirely handmade, intimately inspired by nature, showing the natural elements in all their forms. Ice, crystallization, rain, wind, dew and roots. Crystallized in these surroundings, the Human Being becomes Nature. The Nature is everlasting, nothing can stop it. It is the true beauty, perfection. For depicting this cycle of evolution, Armine Ohanyan uses the new technologies such as 3D printing or materials crafting, which play an important role in her creation process. Her art investigations never end, like the movement that she shows in its different forms and their ranges of colours and materials. Her creations are futuristic, modern, with a wide beauty touch.
Designers Imelda and Eduardo aka Baroqco are citizens of the world . Their roots are from Dutch Chinese Indonesian and Portuguese descent, and this diversity is what provides foundation that leads to the inspiration and creation. BaroQco comes from Baroque, an era of change from simplicity to lively and exuberant detail. BaroQco stands alone with its unique grandeur and ability to surprise and to achieve a sense of awe. Imelda and Eduardo started to create jewelry as they were looking for a tiara or crown for their wedding day. At that time there were not a lot of options, so they decided to create their own tiara which lead others to ask whether they could also make necklaces and earrings.
« As we embrace the impressionism, we strive not only for the outer but especially for the inner-beauty. In our creations we want to push boundaries of artistic techniques. And therefore the BaroQco is a book without an End. »
The materials are opal ,gold and Swarovski and all the metalwork are nickel free, the usage of non toxic and – hazardous for plating makes the jewelry more ecofriendly.
REEBOK DISPLAYS INNOVATION IN FLEXWEAVE FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY WITH DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS
Reebok partners with Joe Doucet x Partners, Modla and Odd Matter in global creative co-op; using Reebok Flexweave to create imaginative fitness prototypes
Reebok has partnered with some of the most creative and innovative minds in the world to create a custom collection of fitness prototypes showcasing the power of Flexweave; the brand’s latest footwear innovation launching in Spring 2018.
In partnership with Joe Doucet x Partners (USA), Modla (ENG) and Odd Matter (AN), the global fitness brand explored the potential of Flexweave. Flexweave boasts an open figure-8 construction that interlocks unlimited strands of fibers to create a single surface construction that is as strong as it is light. All designers worked with the version of the textile that will appear in the first-generation of Reebok Flexweave footwear, launching in 2018, made from chenille yarn.
Each designer was briefed to explore Flexweave’s limitless potential to create a unique product linking form and function, creating an aesthetic product utilizing the benefits of Flexweave whilst serving a fitness purpose.
Reebok Flexweave prototype collection includes a pair of cutting-edge running gloves (Joe Doucet x Partners), a 3D printed altitude training mask (Modla) and a collection of light-weight, active sitting chairs (Odd Matter). Flexweave was developed by the Reebok Innovation Collective; a division championing the open-sourced pursuit of progression via innovation and partnerships that aims to push the boundaries of invention.
JOE DOUCET X PARTNERS – New York City, United States
As a designer, entrepreneur, inventor and creative director, Joe Doucet is one of the most sought-after creative talents in America. Doucet designed a pair of Reebok Flexweave running gloves, form-fitting to the wearers hand, absorbing sweat as they run and lightweight for maximum comfort. The prototype was designed with the vision of being GPS-enabled, guiding the wearer through their run with flashing LED lights to indicate when to turn left or right.
“My inspiration was to capture the unique qualities of the Flexweave technology through something advantageous to an active lifestyle. The strength, flexibility and multi surface durability of Flexweave led me to the idea of a ‘smart’ running glove with a sleek, stylish silhouette. With the form crafted by Flexweave, the next stage of development would be GPS integration paving the way to a new frontier in wearable technology,” said Doucet.
Odd Matter is a design studio driven by curiosity; researching, creating and exploring the world through its materials, processes and concept. The duo created a furniture series of ‘active sitting’ chairs; made through a combination of Reebok Flexweave and malleable EVA foam.
“The Inspiration for the chair came from the Flexweave material itself. Whilst experimenting and playing with the fabric we were very intrigued by its behavior, structure and strength under tension. From there we wanted to create an object that played with that tension, a bit like the string of a bow, something in which the tension and strength is palpable,” said Els Woldhek, Odd Matter.
“Working with the Flexweave was very interesting, for instance when cutting it in different directions you straight away notice the differences between the fibers and the technical properties of the Flexweave. This in turn has made us really curious about everything else that is possible with the technology.”
Co-founded by Jon Fidler and Richard Goddard, Modla is an artistic design house specializing in technological innovation, pushing the creative boundaries of 3D printing and digital 3D design. The pair created an entirely new Reebok Flexweave altitude training mask; 3D printing the valve technology across the nose and mouth, coupled with a Flexweave facial strap to comfortably wrap around the wearer’s face during intense training.
“I do a lot of high intensity training so I’m interested in how such equipment works, functions and can help improve performance. But we also saw the potential in the aesthetic of the Flexweave material, to create something which would blend with the mask and align with the contours of the wearer’s face.
As it happens, the Flexweave material provided even more benefit than just the aesthetic and was amazing to work with. It’s strong and durable, so perfect for a product that will get a lot of wear and tear; while also incredibly lightweight, making it breathable on the face for athletes when training.” said Fidler.
“Flexweave is going to a major part of the Reebok DNA moving forward. With this creative and imaginative project, we’ve achieved exactly what we set out to do; demonstrate through collaborations in other fields what Flexweave can truly achieve when put to the ultimate test,” said James Woolard, Global Marketing Director, Reebok Running.
“The Reebok Innovation Collection champions the pursuit of partnerships and innovations that will continue propelling the brand forward in spaces like fitness, fashion and footwear. Flexweave represents a huge step forward in footwear upper technology and brings with it a wave of anticipation and excitement for what the future holds for this brand”.
Reebok has extended the creative experience around Flexweave to its community, setting up an interactive digital experience on the Reebok Innovation Collective website called ‘Create Your Weave’; inviting you to construct your own virtual weave design and share it with friends.
The brand is also working with one of Savile Row’s finest tailors, Huntsman & Sons, to create a bespoke men’s suit made from Flexweave. Designed for Reebok Running ambassador and superstar WR Brandin Cooks, the experimental pursuit will be complete in Spring 2018.
Flexweave is the latest innovation from the Reebok Innovation Collective, dedicated to creating new technologies, ideas, techniques and prototypes. For more information on the Reebok Innovation Collective please visit http://www.reebok.co.uk/en-GB/innovation_collective/
Reebok International Ltd., headquartered in Boston, MA, USA, is a leading worldwide designer, marketer and distributor of fitness and lifestyle footwear, apparel and equipment. An American-inspired global brand, Reebok is a pioneer in the sporting goods industry with a rich and storied fitness heritage. Reebok develops products, technologies and programming which enable movement and is committed to accompanying people on their journey to fulfill their potential. Reebok connects with the fitness consumer wherever they are and however they choose to stay fit – whether it’s functional training, running, combat training, walking, dance, yoga or aerobics. Reebok Classics leverages the brand’s fitness heritage and represents the roots of the brand in the sports lifestyle market. A subsidiary of adidas, Reebok is the exclusive outfitter of CrossFit and the CrossFit Games, the official title sponsor of the Reebok Spartan Race; the exclusive authentic global outfitter of UFC; the title sponsor of the Reebok Ragnar Relay series; and exclusive apparel provider for Les Mills.