Posts tagged with "Wilhelmina"

Illustration of a Booker by Kaelen Felix for 360 Magazine

Turf Shifts Modeling World

By Dana Feeney

The modeling industry has two very different faces. One side are supermodels, like Gigi and Bella Hadid, glamorously modeling, making millions of dollars, and traveling the world. The other are the unknown models working job to job, facing exploitation and manipulation by their agencies and clients, and trying to make their name in the industry. The mistreatment of models is as old as the industry itself. Skinny, cis, and white models experience this brutal reality. Working as a model is only worse for people of color [POC], LGBTQA+, and immigrants because of the lack of transparency or regulation and rampant misconduct.

New Players

The current push for diversity and inclusion has caused a much higher demand for POC, and LGBTQA+ models with different body types. In recent months, a few new players in the game are building their reputations on accountability and proper treatment of the models and creatives they represent. Three small agencies and one superpower are disrupting the model representation world: New Pandemics, Zandwagon, Community New York, and film and television power player Creative Artists Agency (CAA).
The way modeling deals traditionally work is that a model signs to an agency, such as Next Models, Ford Models, IMG Models, or Wilhelmina Models. The agency provides its models with certain services such as housing, transportation, portfolio shoots, and more. In most cases, anything an agency provides for a model they have to pay back to the agency, often at a high-interest rate. The interest rate means the longer they take to pay it back, the more they owe to the agency.

Although models sign contracts to agencies, they are not considered employees of those agencies and instead are independent contractors who the agency aids in booking jobs. The agencies do not keep models on their payroll. They do control the money that the models earn on a job and how their money models earn is distributed. Bad payment practices reach far beyond the agencies. The agencies are responsible for billing the client right after the model completes their job. Payment for jobs by agencies to their models is notoriously sketchy because clients are not required to pay upfront before shoots and can legally take up to 90 days to settle up. Most agencies take at least a 20% fee out of any money their models make and charge clients a “booking fee,” so for a $1000 job, they would charge $1200 but only pay the model $800. Worst of all, if a client does not pay the agency for work a model did, the agency does not owe the model the money they earned. The common practice in the industry is that the model only gets paid if the agency gets paid.

The film and television management world contrasts the modeling world in many ways. The modeling industry as a whole is riddled with misconduct, manipulation, and poor treatment of models by their agencies and brands. Many modeling agencies use contracts that include fees and costs they can pull out of the model paychecks and use debt, housing, and visas to keep their models dependent.

Agencies in other media such as film, only make money if their clients make money. In film, the percentage is around 10% because of unions. Although, none of these industries are flawless especially considering scandals in the film and tv world with predators like Harvey Weinstein and Matt Lauer.
Creative Artists Agency (CAA) has a long history of representing talents across film, tv, music, and more. In August of 2020, CAA announced their partnership with KCD Worldwide, a fashion services agency, which signaled CAA’s entrance into fashion model management for the first time in the agency’s history. CAA has a strong legacy of representing high-profile individuals and building their careers. They have also stated that they only take a 10% fee out of their models’ earnings, half of the general standard of 20%. Despite their claims for better treatment of models, CAA is not blemish-free when it comes to allegations of abuse and sexual misconduct. Multiple former CAA agents have faced lawsuits.

Additionally, CAA has previously represented multiple people accused of misconduct, including Shia LaBeouf, Chris D’Elia, and Marilyn Mason; all of whom are no longer represented by CAA.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are the smaller boutique agencies mentioned earlier, New Pandemics, Zandwagon, and Community New York. New Pandemics is “a casting and management agency dedicated to increasing LBGTQ+ visibility.”

Zandwagon is “a talent management company that could guide everyday life individuals who are breaking beauty standards daily” according to their website. Community New York is run by Butterfly Cayley, Moe Lamstein, and Richie Keoall, three first-generation immigrants from Laos, and “is founded on inclusivity and progressive values by changing not only the style but the very structure of management.” Cayley, Lamstein, and Keoall have impressive experience at agencies including DNA and Elite Model Management. Community New York now represents stars such as Hunter Schafer, who is well known for her work on the hit HBO show “Euphoria” and is now a brand ambassador for Shiseido.

With small diversity forward agencies up and coming, the existing modeling industry is under attack from all sides. All three of these agencies emphasize how much they value representation and inclusivity in this industry that has avoided breaking societal beauty standards for so long. They also claim they will be different from other agencies and provide better treatment for their clients. These agencies are sending the message that you’re either with them or against them, and they’re willing to think outside of the box to get proper treatment and equity for models from all walks of life.

Same Old Problems

Many of the biggest fashion houses in the world are still reckoning with the #MeToo movement. The fashion industry is known as a highly predatory business. Many of even the largest names in modeling have had to survive people abusing their power on sets and behind the scenes to become who they are. Household names, such as Kate Upton, Coco Rocha, and Cameron Russel, have all spoken out about their experiences with the abuse they’ve experienced while working as models.

Kate Upton spoke out against Paul Marciano in 2018, which led to a total of $500,000 in settlement agreements involving five individuals. He has remained an active participant at GUESS as a board member and chief creative officer, despite resigning from his position as an executive. At the beginning of February, the news broke that Marciano is once again being sued over sexual assault allegations by a woman who has chosen to remain anonymous. The allegations against Marciano are not an isolated incident. Similarly, allegations were brought against Alexander Wang in December of 2020 but began as early as 2017, yet some still chose his side despite the overwhelming corroboration of multiple individuals. If the word of a woman as successful as Kate Upton is not enough to oust a predator from power, it’s unclear what realistically can protect vulnerable individuals with less acclaim from the same experiences or worse.

The silver lining of these allegations coming to light is the industry supporting the individuals coming forward more than ever before. In the past, many models lost their careers before they had even begun due to the actions of predators and the mechanisms powerful people use to silence their victims. Accounts such as @shitmodelmgmt and @dietprada have been using their online platforms to expose predators and condemn their actions openly across Instagram and Twitter. Additionally, the Model Alliance, an organization dedicated to giving models a voice in their work, has also spoken out against Wang on their Instagram saying, “We stand with David Casavant, Owen Mooney, Gia Garison, and all the accusers of @alexanderwangny in their pursuit towards justice.”

The upheaval that began in 2006 with survivor and activist Tarana Burke’s creation of the #MeToo movement has continued into 2021. Slowly but surely survivors are taking their power back and pushing to create real change in media industries that have exploited them for far too long.

Illustration of models by Rita Azar for 360 Magazine

Transgender, rita azar, illustrations, Vaughn Lowery, 360 MAGAZINE, PRIDE, alternative lifestyle

Top Trans Models

By Katrina Tiktinsky

It’s Pride Month, and as we collectively recall LGBTQ+ history, and consider the particular challenges faced by these community members in our present society, it’s evident there’s much work to be done. Pride Month commemorates the 1969 Stonewall Riots, which found a leader in Marsha P. Johnson. Johnson was a black drag queen who ultimately identified as transgender. The NYPD originally ruled her premature death a suicide, but activists later called for a reopening of the case, and the police reclassified the cause of death as undetermined. The invaluable lives of trans people continue to face an especially disproportional high risk of sexual harassment, sexual assault, and violence so extreme as murder.

Vogue and the fashion industry at large have come under fire recently, and specifically in the midst of Black Lives Matter protests, for their failure to elevate minority figures. This lack of representation is symptomatic of broader systems of prejudice. And it’s important to remember the human cost of this prejudice, sometimes more insidious oppression, sometimes quite obvious violence. The fashion industry is inexcusably overdue when it comes to championing diversity in meaningful ways. With this context in mind, 360 has compiled a list of a few transgender models to watch — follow them on social media, support them, and (if you’re in the fashion world) cast them!

Isis King: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

The first trans woman on America’s Next Top Model (2008), King has modeled as the face of American Apparel, and created her own fashion line. She has transitioned toward acting, appearing in Netflix’s When They See Us.

Leyna Bloom: Instagram | Wikipedia

A model, dancer, and activist, Bloom was the first openly transgender model to walk in New York Fashion Week (2017), as well as the first trans woman of color on the cover of Vogue India. She broke a third record, as the first trans woman of color in a leading role for a movie featured at a major film festival (Port Authority, at Cannes). Her roots are in the Chicago ballroom world, but she moved to New York as a teenager to pursue modeling.

Andreja Pejić: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

Pejić became the first trans woman to sign a cosmetics contract, to appear on multiple magazine covers, and to headline a campaign for Bonds. She has modeled both men and women’s clothing.

Valentina Sampaio: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

The first transgender woman to model for Victoria’s Secret, less than a year after the CMO declared he would never hire a trans model. Sampaio has also graced Elle, Vanity Fair Italia, and Vogue Brasil covers.

Nathan Westling: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

Westling has modeled for the likes of Versace and Dior, as well as gracing major magazine covers. Business of Fashion named him one of the 500 most influential figures in the industry. He began his modeling career in 2015, quickly gained steam as a top female model, and transitioned in 2019.

Teddy Quinlivan: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

Quinlivan was discovered by Louis Vuitton’s Nicholas Ghesquière in 2015, and named the first openly transgender model to be the face of Chanel Beauty in 2019. She is a staunch advocate for the trans community in the fashion world and beyond. She has modeled for the likes of Jeremy Scott and Diane Von Furstenberg.

Chella Man: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

Man is another record-breaker, the first deaf transgender model to sign to a major agency (IMG Models). He is an advocate for the deaf-trans community, and has shared his life story openly with the hopes of aiding others. Man portrayed deaf superhero Jericho in DC’s Titans.

Lea T (Leandra Medeiros Cerezo): Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

“Lea T” became the first openly trans face of Givenchy in 2010, and the first openly trans face of Redken in 2014. She remains a muse to former Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci. She has posed for French Vogue and LOVE.

Hunter Schafer: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

A model with an exhaustive resume that includes Dior and Erdem, Schafer has also forayed into acting. She plays Jules opposite Zendaya in the critically-acclaimed HBO series Euphoria.

Indya Moore: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

Like Schafer, Moore has expanded beyond her high-end fashion career into the world of acting. They now star as Angel Evangelista in Pose. Moore has modeled for Gucci and Dior, and posed for Vogue España. They are the first openly trans person to have posed for the cover of Elle.

Laith Ashley: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

Ashley also starred in Pose, a show that has cast the most transgender actors in lead roles of any scripted series ever. Ashley modeled in a viral Calvin Klein underwear campaign, and has walked runways for numerous top designers. He is also a recording musician.

Ines Rau: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

The first out trans woman to appear as Playboy’s Playmate centerfold, Rau has modeled for major labels like Balmain, and has posed for Vogue Italia.

Hari Nef: Instagram | Wikipedia | Agency

IMG Worldwide’s first trans model, Nef has walked for Eckhaus Latta and Adam Selman. She has acted in You and Assassination Nation. Nef is the first openly trans person to land the cover of a major British Magazine.

ERODNEY DAVIS

Some of the biggest stars in the world rely on Erodney Davis and his agency, Basic White Shirt, with its roster of the world’s most sought-after Celebrity Hairstylists, Makeup Artists and Nail Artists, to look their best.

After graduating with honors from North Carolina A&T State University in 1996, Davis accepted a job at ad agency, Y&R New York, while also moonlighting as part-time personal assistant to Celebrity Makeup Artist and Author, Sam Fine.

After more than a decade developing his acute business acumen alongside visionaries from the world of advertising, beauty and fashion, Davis changed course, leaving corporate America behind with only his savings and a desire to work in a more creative capacity. A month later, he began assisting top Casting Directors in NY, Paris & Milan, helping designers like Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler, Alice Temperley, and J. Mendel choose the most elite models of the moment to bring their designer collections to life on the runway.

During this time, Davis experienced a full-circle moment when Sam Fine tapped him to manage Fine’s freelance bookings and eventually other clients came calling, giving rise to Davis’ boutique agency, Basic White Shirt, boasting a cadre of talented beauty professionals. Davis continued casting models for New York Fashion Week for another 8 years while simultaneously running BWS. Currently based in Brooklyn, NY, Davis’ main focus is growing his agency’s roster with select, creative clientele and managing the needs of his world-class talent.

Casting/Fashion Clients:

Bottega Veneta

Calvin Klein

Carlos Miele

Coach

Emporio Armani

Fashion Fair Cosmetics

GAP

Giorgio Armani

J. Mendel

Levi’s

Narciso Rodriguez

Ohne Titel

Proenza Schouler

Ralph Lauren / Polo.com

Rachel Zoe

Temperley London

Tommy Hilfiger

Mgmt/Agency Clients:

Sir John

Sir John Celebrity Makeup Artist whose clients include Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian, Naomi Campbell, Mary J. Blige, Kelly Rowland, Erykah Badu, Viola Davis, Margot Robie, Priyanka Chopra & Gabrielle Union

Sam Fine

Sam Fine Celebrity Makeup Artist & Author whose clients include Queen Latifah, Jennifer Hudson, Iman, Mary J. Blige, Vanessa Williams, Keri Hilson, Paula Patton, Patti Labelle & Tyra Banks

Oslyn Holder

Oslyn Holder Celebrity Makeup Artist whose clients include Bette Midler, Vanessa Williams, LionBabe, Bernadette Peters, Kelly Clarkson, Tia & Tamera Mowry, Danaii Gurira, Holly Robinson Peete & Regina King

Mila Thomas

Mila Thomas Celebrity Makeup Artist whose clients include Jenifer Lewis, En Vogue, Neicy Nash, K. Michelle, Karrueche Tran, Angela Rye, Amara La Negra & Jasmine Sanders

NICKI MINAJ × HARPER’S BAZAAR VIETNAM

Nicki Minaj wears Phillip Plein and Cory Couture

 

Photographed by Greg Swales

 

Styled by KC Jones